Aus Day 8 - Coober Pedy Tour

Monday 27th September Aus Day 08


Lie in this morning as I’m staying on this site for another night so, don’t need to check-out before 10 am. However, up at 7.30 and after shower and breakfast set up with the laptop outside the pizza bar in order to get Internet access:

JB's Internet Access Area - Coober Pedy Camp Site

Managed to get my email traffic sorted and updated the Blog for Aus Day 6. I will have to spend time tonight getting Aus Day 7 drafted and posted.

11.15 – Drove into town (Coober Pedy boasts a population of 3,500) to get provisions, bananas etc but also managed to pick up an acceptable pair of trainers (at last) for $50. They should more than last for the duration of my travels. Following this it was back to the caravan park and prepare for the Tour.

I was ready and waiting at the appointed spot by 13.00 and 14 of us set off on the grand adventure. We started with a circular (ish) tour of the town centre pointing out all of the major sights and accommodation.


Mining Advertisement



Dugout Housing

More Underground Housing

Our driver and guide, Yani, (apart from being the owner of the caravan park) also seemed to have a finger in a lot of pies. At 2.00pm he arranged to have us at the Umoona Mining Museum where we were treated to a 20 minute film about the discovery of Australian Opals and the founding of Coober Pedy. We were then conducted through an underground house (in which most of the residents live) followed by an old (real) opal mine, complete with dummy miners.


Entrance to the Umoona Opal Museum & Mine



Underground Room



Underground Bedroom



Down into the Mine

After a quick cup of coffee and a viewing of the Opal jewellery they had for sale (surprise, surprise) we were back on the bus and off to the Opal mining fields with, Yani providing explanations of the type of mining being conducted (Based on his 10 years experience Opal mining) basically there are two methods in operation, shaft mining or open cast and we were shown examples of both.


That is Black Grass on the Golf Course - Very Rare



The Opal Fields with a million dirt heaps

Opal Mine Shaft

Open Cast Opal Mining

On the Opal fields, each pile of dirt you can see has an open shaft next to it. A health and safety nightmare.

After the trip round the Opal fields, we were whisked off to an area north of the town known as the Breakaways. An area of colourful hills, the colour of which apparently changes at sunset and sunrise. It is also where part of the film Mad Max was filmed. We viewed them initially from an overlooking hill and then from down in the valley. It is really beautiful scenery and something I would not have seen if I hadn’t taken the tour.

Known Locally as Salt & Pepper

Breakaways where Mad Max Was Filmed - Apparently

Following the track further, we skirted the Dingo Fence (the longest fence in the world which was originally over 9,000 kms in length.) and eventually turned onto the Oonadatta track which lead us back to Coober Pedy.

Skirting the Dingo Fence

The final part of the tour was a look around the underground Serbian Church which had like all of the other underground accommodation had been carved out of the solid rock.

The Serbian Underground Church

Inside the Serbian Church

Although, in general, I am somewhat averse to guided tours of any sort I have to say that I am glad that I went on this one. It was informative and Yani was quite amusing from time to time and overall, I got to see some of the sights of South Australia which would have been denied to me travelling in the camper van which is prohibited from travelling on unsealed roads. Finally, I shall now have to go and see Mad Max again to see if I can identify the area of the Breakaways where filming is alleged to have been carried out.

Returning to the caravan park managed to get the Blog for Day 7 posted, grabbed a much valued Skype conversation with Eileen and then rounded the evening off with a Garlic Prawn Pizza. Yummy! Finally it was back to the van where I entertained myself for an hour with Majong, on the laptop, before succumbing to the dulcet tones of Zebedee and his “Time for bed.”

Aus Day 7 - To the Opal Fields

Sunday 26th September Aus Day 7


Up at 07.00 this morning to the sound of dogs barking, kids screaming and motorbike engines roaring. Makes for a fine alarm clock but I could have done without it. However, showered, breakfast, tidied the van then completed yesterday’s Blog update although I have no idea when I’ll get to post it. Anyway after refuelling at the BP station I hit the road to Coober Pedy at 09.30. But here is a photo of the Van on the site at Glendambo.


My Camper Van at Glendambo

I am really into the Outback now, apart from the highway, there is not a lot to be seen in any direction. I think the following 2 shots demonstrate quite well. These were taken some 25 minutes after leaving Glendambo.


Miles From Anywhere



Still Miles From Anywhere

I am making it a rule to stop at all major rest areas, just to get out of the van and stretch my legs, otherwise there is a danger of falling asleep at the wheel and I certainly don’t want that to happen. Most of the major rest sites have a certain amount of tourist information which tells a story as you progress from one to the next. Perhaps predictably, about John McDouall Stuart who completed the first South to North crossing of Australia and after whom this highway is named. The following were taken at the Bon Bon Rest Area.

Bon Bon Rest Area Info



Bon Bon Rest Area Info

Bon Bon Rest Area Info

Bon Bon Rest Area Info

As I was driving along I had noticed quite a number of small lizard type creatures sunning themselves, either on or, by the side of the road. So, at the next rest area I set about trying to find and photograph one of these creatures and spent about half an hour searching the ground. Well, I spotted one very small one but, o course it was far too quick for me to get a photo of it so, you’ve got one of the van instead.

A Fairly Remote Rest Area

The next major rest break area was Ingomar where I stopped for a cup of coffee and got chatting to an ex-Bavarian guy who came to Aus in 1969. He was travelling in a very smart Mitsubishi 4x4 and was also heading for Darwin. However, he was expecting to get there in 4/5 days whereas I don’t expect to be there until about 13th/14th October. He was then going to be heading for the East coast and down to Sydney, (the route I had taken in 2000) before heading back to Adelaide. Anyway, this rest site had more information boards, as you can see below.

Ingomar Rest Area Information

Ingomar Rest Area Information

The wide open terrain continued and at 13.30 with only another 50 kms to go before I reached Coober Pedy, I couldn’t resist showing you another example:

Only Another 50 Kms to Coober Pedy

Even though I was doing my best impersonation of a Sunday Driver, it was still only 14.10 when I arrived at Coober Pedy to be greeted by the following iconic sight:

Coober Pedy Welcome Sign

I had a quick drive into town, quickly checking out where the fuel stations were and noting that there are two supermarkets. Unfortunately, being Sunday, the Information Office was closed so I checked into the Stuart Range Caravan Park at about 2.30 pm.

The Entrance to the Stuart Range Caravan Park

As it happens, I was glad that I had arrived early because by about 4.00 pm there was a queue of camper vans and caravans waiting to book in and by 5.00 pm the park was looking pretty full. I had some trouble establishing Internet access but finally managed it by taking my laptop to the reception pizza bar. A bit of a pain but better than not connecting. I decided to stay for a second night and also take advantage of the Coober Pedy Tour that was being offered. Additionally I treated myself to an Aussie Pizza for my evening meal (Tomato, Cheese, Ham, Egg and Bacon). Sounds strange but it went down very well. Then, of course, that chap Zebedee was calling and so it was off to bed.

Aus Day 6 - Where did you say we where?

Saturday 25th September Aus Day 6

Up in reasonable time this morning and left the caravan park at 08.40 but stopped for more provisions and fuel in the town so, didn’t finally hit the road until 09.30. It was not long before I stopped at the Port Augusta Botanical Park Lookout where I took the following photos of the area including looking towards the Flinders Range.

View from Port Augusta Botanical Lookout

View from Port Augusta Botanical Lookout

View from Port Augusta Botanical Lookout

As you can probably see from these pictures, it was a beautiful day with a clear blue sky and the temperature was getting to be quite warm, just as I had hoped.

It must have been rush hour on the road I was travelling as I was encountering almost 2 vehicle a minute. However, as you can see from this view looking back in the direction of Port Augusta it wasn’t too much of a problem.

Looking Back down the Highway towards Port Augusta

As you can imagine when travelling this sort of road you tend to take advantage of any potential photo opportunity and the following were taken at the Ranges View Lookout, somewhere near Bookaloo.

Distant View of the Flinders Range



Very Distant view of the Ranges

Shortly after this I was starting to get into the salt lake country and took these first views of one part of Island Lagoon to the South of Woomera.

Island Lagoon - I wonder why that name???

Another View of Island Lagoon

JB at Island Lagoon

I was now approaching Woomera, probably the largest over-land military testing range in the world where travel off the State Highway is prohibited without a permit. Since I didn’t have such a permit I thought it best not to wander. However, I took the following picture advertising Woomera attractions just before getting to the Woomera turnoff and Spud’s Roadhouse were I stopped for a little refreshment.


Woomera Advertising



Spud's Roadhouse



Wider View of Spud's Roadhouse

Having had a wander around the roadhouse area and studied the information boards which outline the establishment of the township of Plimba (which is where the Roadhouse is – Woomera is 6kms up the road) and the Great Artesian Basin from which most of the water for the dry central regions is taken.

I rejoined the highway for the next stint. Dotted along the highway at quite frequent intervals are picnic/rest areas as well as strategic lookout points. My next stop was at one of these lookouts overlooking the salt lake of Harts Lake views of which are shown below. The white areas are salt deposit on the lake shore.


View of Hart Lake



Hart Lake shore line



JB at Hart Lake



Example of Flora around Lake Hart

Sauntering on up the highway; I was being passed by everything else on the road. This amounted to an average of one vehicle every 15 kilometres, it really was quite busy!!! Eventually I arrived at my planned destination for the day, Glendambo, having covered a distance of 289 kms (179 miles).
The township of Glendambo (Pop: 35) consists of a BP Petrol Station, a Shell Petrol Station, a Roadhouse, an Hotel and a General Store. Oh yes, and 2 Public Telephones. However, there is no Internet and no mobile phone coverage. Consequently, although I am drafting this Blog update, I will be unable to post it until some future time, as yet indeterminate.

Having booked into the Caravan Park, a bit of a posh name really, had a bit of a scout around which took me all of 15 minutes (well I did it slowly) and then retired to the Hotel bar for a reviving beverage. They didn’t have any of that so, I had a beer instead.

A bit later on after having had a bite to eat I tried my hand at a bit of sunset photography, the results of which you can see below;


Sunset at Glendambo



Sunset at Glendambo

It was then back to the Hotel bar (See below) for another beer and to watch the Rugby League in which the Tigers beat the Dragons 13:12 a pretty tense match. After this Zebedee was calling and so it was off to bed.


Decoration above the Hotel bar



Aus Day 5 - Heading North at last

Friday 24th September Aus Day 5


Well, today is when I set off on my travels round Australia proper. So, up early to get the cases packed. Trying, of course to ensure that nothing got left behind. I am keen to get going but have to confess that I will miss the bed I have been sleeping in for the past few nights. Right on cue, the weather is improving and the sun is shining this morning and it looks as though it will get out quite warm.

Valerie is very kindly driving me into the North of Adelaide in order to pick up the Camper Van from the depot and we set off at about 10.00. Traffic was quite heavy but we made it to the depot by approximately 11.15 to find the van sitting there ready for me. Always a good start.

Went through the hand over procedure fairly quickly, bade farewell to Valerie, as she continued on her way to visit son Ben again, and then hit the road heading North, with the intention of making a fast first leg up to Port Augusta commonly known as the Crossroads of Australia. While on this occasion I am heading North to Alice Springs and Darwin I will no doubt pass through again in early December on my return to Adelaide via The Nullabor Plain

Once beyond the Adelaide suburbs, the road passes through a considerable expense of flat countryside which seems to be devoted to mainly arable farming. I stopped briefly after a couple of hours to take the following photos just as an indicator of the area I was driving through. Eventually, without incident, I arrived at Port Augusta and located the camper van site before going to stock up on provisions.

Off the A1 Near Port Pirie heading for Port Augusta



A1 Near Port Pirie heading for Port Augusta

Returned to the site, where I set up for the night and took the following photos from within the site fence since it boasts a view of the Flinders Range.


From the Shoreline Caravan Park - Port Augusta



Flinders Range from the Shoreline Caravan Park

As I sit in the van, drafting this Blog entry, it is 9.40 pm local time and I am still warm, even though wearing only a tee-shirt and jeans. A significant change from my last night in New Zealand and even the last few nights at Willunga. I am looking forward to a comfortable night and another fine day tomorrow as I head up the A87 past Woomera to Glendambo. However, I can now hear Zebedee calling, "time for bed".