Aus Day 27 - You Were Going Where?

Saturday October 16th Aus Day 27



Rose at 07.15 after a comfortable night in the Air Conditioning, great stuff this modern technology. Shower and breakfast and then I thought that I had better get authorisation from Apollo, (As per contract) to travel the roads that I was intending to in order to visit the Bungle Bungles. Unfortunately, I was informed that the Duncan Road and the Bungle Bungles area had been closed due to heavy rain. This of course threw my entire planned itinerary into the garbage can. Talk about ‘rain stopped play.’ So, what to do instead? After a little bit of thinking I decided to nip back up the road and visit Leliyn (Edith Falls) about 40 kms north of Katherine and then visit Katherine Gorge, about 20 kms to the east of Katherine, sorted!


Plans revised, I got the van packed up and left the caravan park by 09.40, refuelled and headed north. (I am beginning to get to know this stretch of highway) I duly arrived at the Leliyn car park, part of the Nitmiluk National Park, by 10.35. The weather is cooler today and much less humid than of late.

Entrance to the National Park

My first look at the lower pool left me feeling not too impressed; see photo below, so I decided to undertake the 2 km loop walk, advised as a 2 hour trip, and so off I went. It was quite gentle to start, with stepping stones and a boardwalk across streams; see below, before starting to ascend but, nowhere near strenuous as the Kings Canyon Rim climb I had done previously. The most significant problem I had to contend with was; flies, damn flies and even more damn flies.

Lower Pool and Falls

Board Walk Over the Stream

However, I eventually  arrived at the first lookout spot where I had a good view of both pools each being fed by their own waterfalls. You might just be able to see the bridges which cross the outlet of the upper pool.

Upper & Lower Pools & Waterfalls From Lookout

The next stop on the loop walk was in fact at those bridges where I took a couple of shots of the upper falls; there were people swimming in the upper pool in the second of these shots

Upper Falls

Upper Falls and Pool - Can You Spot The Swimmers?

The remainder of the walk was a relatively easy stroll downhill with one other lookout point giving a view of the lower pool.

Lower Pool from Lookout

Anyway, I was back at the start kiosk eating a Mrs Mac Meat Pie by 12.20, having completed the 2 hour walk in just about 1 hr 30 mins including stopping for photographs and video shots. No sooner had I finished eating than a bird appeared from nowhere and finished off the crumbs from my plate, right in front of me. The following picture is not a telephoto shot. The bird is really that close.

Cheeky Chappie

By 12.50 I was off again, heading back to Katherine where I ‘hung a left’ and made for Kathrine Gorge where I booked a boat trip for the morning and a powered camp site for tonight. With any luck I should get some really nice photos tomorrow but in the meantime what do you think of this for a pool in your back garden?

Pool at Katherine Gorge Caravan Park

Having parked and started up the Air Con, I was into the pool by 15.30 to find that it was extremely refreshing and of a length which needed more than 4 strokes to get from end to end.


Although I have no mobile network coverage here and no Internet access identified through the ‘normal’ laptop coverage, my little gizmo seems to be working its magic and I established Skype connection with Eileen spot on time.


The early part of the evening was spent listening to an acoustic guitar performer by the pool side and I have to confess that I succumbed to a meal of chicken skewers although I did have them with salad. Then it was back to the air conditioned van to draft out this Blog update and wait for Zebedee’s bedtime call, while trying to contain my excitement for the day ahead of me tomorrow. At the moment, I have no idea where I will be tomorrow night.

Aus Day 26 - A Change of Van and Air Conditioned Luxury

Friday 15th October   Aus Day 26


Rose this morning at 07.30 with the Van change over ahead. Managed to get mos of my kit stowed away in the suitcases but somehow I have managed to collect a load of stuff which won’t go in the cases so will simply have to transfer that at the depot. Although the temperature is probably only about 28/29 degrees, the humidity must be very high because even without doing very much I am dripping with sweat even though I wipe myself down every few minutes. In fact I have just checked the records on the Internet and the Relative Humidity in Darwin this morning was 90%, that explains a lot.

Booked out from the Tourist Park with the promise to see them again in a week’s time when Eileen arrives. Then drove to the nearest filling station en-route to the Apollo Depot. The Hitop van was booked in without any problem and I then took delivery of 4WD Camper which has an extending roof. Did the usual checks and then signed over huge amounts of money and was on my way by 11.30.

Nothing really to report on the drive down to Katherine other than to say that driving the new van is much more like driving a car except there is no rear view mirror and the wing mirrors are rubbish so, most of the time you have no idea what, if anything, is behind you. Trying to reverse is a bit of a nightmare, as well.

I managed to resist the urge to call in to Adelaide River and Pine Creek to have another look at the railway relics and so arrived in Katherine at about 2.30 pm and went straight to Woolworth's to restock my provisions, remembering to get a few beers at the same time, and then booked into the Caravan Park that I had vacated a few nights ago although I was allocated the site next to the one I had previously. You can see the new van all set up, complete with awning and roof extended in the photo below.

Katherine - Same Scene, Different Van

By now the time was about 16.30 so I prepared for my daily Internet, Skype, fix. However, this time I was able to get set up in air conditioned luxury. Did I not mention that this van also has air conditioning? Brilliant!!!

Checked in with sister Valerie, in Adelaide, as I noticed that she was on-line as I got logged on. Said hello to her and others who happened to be there before switching to my prime reason for the Skype access and that was to call Eileen. I think we are both getting quite excited that it is now less than a week until she joins me.

After our call, I was going to go for a dip in the park pool but remembered that Katherine has the hot springs just outside the caravan park so, decide to risk the crocodiles and check it out. I am glad I did, there is a stream running through the woods at the back of the caravan park with the water, crystal clear and just about body temperature. It was lovely to get into, very refreshing and not a crocodile in sight:

See! - No Crocodiles

Following that It was back to the mundane sorted out my laundry, had yet another salad evening meal and then spent the evening luxuriating in my air conditioned van, bringing my records up to date and planning the route for the next few days, as well as updating this Blog entry, of course. Finally, to end the day, guess who springs up to say, “and so to bed” yes it is that chap Zebedee.

Aus Day 25 - Hidden Valley to Darwin

Thursday 14th October Aus Day 25


Up at 06.30 this morning, as I need to get yesterday’s Blog finished and published. Shower, breakfast and then Blog and email, I seem to be spending a great deal of my life in front of this laptop but maybe it will all be worth it in the end. When I am in my dotage, (who said when???) I will be able to read back over the Blog entries and remember my big adventure, if adventure is the right word. I have had some very nice comments though so please keep them coming, it makes this peregrinator very happy.

The Van Parked up at the Hidden Valley Tourist Park

Once caught up with things this morning, I took myself off into Darwin to check out the shopping centre, a couple of the beaches and access to the Airport for when I need to collect Eileen, next week.

Darwin centre is fairly compact, laid out on a grid pattern so it’s quite easy to find your way around. I bought myself a couple of cheap Aussie tee shirts and an antenna to go with the Next G network adapter. This should improve reception when we are travelling down the West Coast. I would hate to be out of contact again.

They Don't Do Subtlety

From the CBD (Central Business District) just a short walk to the Esplanade, where I got my first view of the Timor Sea:

Walk through the Bicentennial Park - Off the Esplanade

First View of the Sea From the Bicentennial Park

I drove around the coast road into the Fannies Bay area and stopped to take a couple of shots on Vesteys Beach which looked beautiful. This is just up from Mindil Beach where on a Thursday and Sunday evening, they hold a Sunset Market. I don’t think that I will get chance to be there tonight but maybe next week.

Vesteys Beach in Fannies Bay - Looking South

Vesteys Beach in Fannies Bay - Looking North

The next job was to research the Airport car parking for when I meet Eileen next week. This turned out to be quite straight forward but, these things so often are when you have plenty of time in hand. They are only difficult when you are trying desperately to meet a deadline.

After that it was a slow meander back to the caravan park as I needed to get the van sorted out for exchange tomorrow morning, when I pick up a 4X4 Camper for the next 9 days. Got to go and do a bit of off-roading while I’m in Aus, or at least dirt tracking.

Made the regular Skype contact with the lovely Eileen and then just before 6pm adjourned to the pool for a refreshing dip. Following this with Al Fresco salad for my evening meal, I will be starting to look like a salad soon if I’m not careful. I have just checked the max temperature recorded in Darwin today and it seems that it was only 32 degrees. Well, I can tell you that if felt a lot warmer than that. Especially if you couldn’t find any shade.

Well, my ‘Mate’ Zebedee will be calling before too much longer so I will try to pre-empt him by getting this Blog update published tonight which will then leave me with a clear day tomorrow in order to swap the van and blast back down to Katherine en-route to the Bungle Bungles. Night for now!

Aus Day 24 - Delayed by Railway Museums

Wednesday 13th October Aus Day 24


Didn’t have to good a night and was roused at 03.17 by a sales message fro Orange on my mobile. Just what I wanted. It started raining at about 06.00 so I didn’t get up until 07.30 to an overcast, dull, humid day with rain still falling. I have shown you the lake that formed in the road between the camper sites. It is a good job that I got all my laundry done and dried yesterday afternoon. Had breakfast and updated my travel accounts before showering, just for a change. I seem to spend a lot of time updating things, maybe I’m obsessed (No comments please Samantha) but, I’m not comfortable unless I got a good handle on how things stand.

Van packed up and ready to go at 09.50 so, refuelled and it the road. First port of call was Pine Creek which has a railway museum but apparently it only opens one day a week. (Not today) However, I wandered up the ‘Lookout’ which overlooks the disused & flooded Enterprise Goldmine and now makes a very pleasant spot.

Flooded Remains of the Enterprise Gold Mine - Pine Creek

JB at the Pine Creek Lookout

Having scrambled back down to the road I found the old railway station and what is termed the ‘Miner’s Park’ with relics of the gold mining machinery, so had a good look around and, of course, took a couple of photos including one of a Boab (or Boabab) Tree:

Pine Creek Railway Station

Pine Creek Gold Mining Relics

JB at Pine Creek - No Trains Today?

Boab Tree Amongst the Relics

I thought I had better get a move on so headed off up the road but, after about another 110 kms I arrived at Adelaide River where they had another railway museum. This one was open so naturally I had to call in. When I did I found out that somewhere between my leaving Pine Creek and arriving at Adelaide River, the Ghan train had passed going south. Drat!!!

The Museum is a small affair consisting of the original station building, a preserved carriage which doubles as the Visitor Information Centre, an old Diesel engine, a couple of wagons and a workshop. Still I had a good look round and the chap who acts as tourist information person and curator escorted me round and gave me his prepared speech:

The Original Adelaide River Railway Station 1888

Apparently the first Diesel Engine Used on the Northern Line

A Cattle Truck and one of the first Bulk Fuel Carriers

Time was now pressing as I still had some 100 plus kms to go before getting to Darwin where I would then have to locate the caravan park. So, off I set and managed to get to Darwin and the caravan park by 16.30 without having to stop at any more railway memorabilia.

Caravan Park is a bit on the expensive side at $36 a night for a powered site, however, it is where Eileen and I will be spending the first nights of her arrival, so wanted to check it out. Managed to get parked up and logged on just in time for our scheduled Skype session at 5.00 pm local time, 08.30 UK time and after we had exchanged news etc I went for a dip in the pool which is well maintained but, the water was a bit on the warm side.

The Pool at the Hidden Valley Tourist Park

Evening meal was salad again, how good am I? And then the rest of the evening spent checking emails etc before retiring at approx 10.30 because Zebedee said I had to.

Aus Day 23 - Katherine and the Internet

Tuesday 12th October Aus Day 23


Rose at 07.30, shower, breakfast, completed draft of Blog for Monday then prepared for moving. Refuelled and hit the road by 09.20. At 53 kms up the road I pulled in to the Alexander Forrest Commemorative Cairn. Who, you might well ask, was Alexander Forrest? Well, those interested can follow the link but the cairn was erected by the Royal W.A. Historical Society and Katherine Historical to commemorate the fact that Alexander Forrest and his party had reached the Overland Telegraph near this point on the night of 31st August 1879 after making an epic journey from De Grey on the W.A. Coast. As it happens, the cairn looks to be falling into disrepair.

Sign to Alexander Forrest Commemorativel Cairn

They are very strong on the WWII Historical sites in the Northern Territory with all of the airfield sites duly signed, as in this example:

Sign to the WWII Gorrie Airfield on the Stuart Highway

Some of you will recognise that I have a passing interest in things of a railway nature and consequently you may understand why I stopped to take this photo as I entered Mataranka However, the Never-Never Line was the name given to the Northern Section of the railway which now runs from Adelaide to Darwin but was only completed in 2004.

Arrival at Mataranka

Stopped for a quick spot of lunch at 12.25 and was on my way again by 12.45. I knew that this was going to be a short leg and I rolled into Katherine at about 13.30 and my first port of call was the Telstra office to make enquiries about the Australian Mobile Internet “Next G.” This requires a USB connector with a Pre-Paid; SIM card installed which will then connects to the Internet where-ever there is a Telstra mast and are reputed to work throughout Australia. Well I thought, it is worth the risk at $89 since it comes with 2 GB of data pre-loaded. Assuming it installs and operates correctly, it will pay for itself in saved Internet connection fees in a very short space of time. Fingers crossed.

Called into Woolworths, (yes they still have them and they still call them “Woolies”) for provisions then hightailed it to the Caravan Park. I was allocated a nice shady spot but, it was so hot and humid that I was just dripping with perspiration (sweat).

However, set to and installed my new acquisition without any problems and was soon up and running. Just to test it out I spent some time updating the Blog entries for 20th, 21st an 22nd, all without issue. However, to cap it all, I re-established Skype contact with the lovely Eileen and that really made my day.

Being so hot and sticky, I thought that a dip in the pool might cool me down a little and so dutifully, showered and threw myself into the pool. Felt great immediately afterwards but was soon sweating up again, although I felt revived enough to rustle up a salad tea, which I ate, Al Fresco. (Getting to be a habit).

I was also doing some more work on the laptop and it was rapidly approaching the time when I could hardly see the keys and the insects were arriving, attracted by the light from the screen. So, as hot and humid as it was, I retreated to the interior of the van to complete my work. I had earlier thought of taking a dip in the Thermal Pools, just outside the caravan park but the notice about crocodiles put me off and in any case, I didn’t want to be any warmer than I already was.

Before long that chap Zebedee turned up and put me to bed for the night. However, it rained quite heavily again during the night and I was greeted with the following scene when I arose.

Water, Water, Everywhere

Aus Day 22 - Frogs and Rain Storms

Monday 11nd October     Aus Day 22


A hot and humid night which I spent with all of the screened windows fully open and still had to sleep in the buff. (Oooooohhhhh, naughty!!!)

However, just before retiring last night at about 10.30, I went to the loo and to clean my teeth. Luckily I had my torch with me as I was greeted by a veritable plague of frogs. It was ‘orrible. Naturally I was careful to check the toilet and shower before I used them this morning.

The dawn chorus was particularly raucous with the Crows and Gullahs competing to make the most noise. As a consequence I was up at 06.45 and having showered, had breakfast Al Fresco. See photo below.

Kippers Sir?

After listening to the birds for while and watching the butterflies flutter through the trees I decided to try and capture a photo. The one below is the best of several attempts:

Butterflies Seem To Be The Only Thing To Stay Still Long Enough For A Photo

However, having idled away enough time, I packed up and was ready to go by 09.20 stopping off in town to refuel. Then hit the Savannah Hwy back towards Cape Crawford which would then continue into the Carpentaria Hwy to the Stuart Hwy at the Hi-Way Inn some 380 kms away.

I was surprised at about 10.35 to come across a round-up with mounted riders controlling a bunch of cattle along the aide of the highway:

Head 'em up and Move 'em Out - Yee Haaa!!!

I followed this shortly after with a view of the single track Savannah Hwy:

Savannah Highway - Reminds Me Of Somewhere Else!

At about 10.50, I sailed past the Cape Crawford Roadhouse without stopping and onto the almost entirely single track Carpentaria Hwy. Some 30 minutes later I pulled into a rest area about 30 kms down the track where I was quite surprised to find the following views:

View North - Just Off The Carpentaria Highway

View West From The Same Rest Area

And JB Was There As Well

I decided that I couldn’t avoid showing you the single track Carpentaria Hwy and so here it is:

Carpentaria Hwy - The Weather Was Nice At This Point

As is my custom, I stopped a little after 12.00 at the next available rest area but this wan’t even worth a photograph for posterity. However, I had now covered 212 km and still ad some way to go:

The Yellow Brick Road Wasn't As Long As This

The rest of the journey passed uneventfully apart from having to follow an escort vehicle through a set of roadworks (about 3 kms long) and having to pull completely off the carriageway on two occasions to let Road Trains through. Well! I wasn’t going to argue with them, was I? Finally, at about 2.30 pm I spotted the following sign and just afterwards, pulled into the roadhouse.

At Last!!! - The Bottom Right Hand Side Said - 'Air Con Bar'

First impression was pretty good and when I found that the rates were only £10 with a sun-downer drink thrown in, I was really impressed. So, with fees duly handed over, I set up in a very select spot under a big tree and proceeded to find out what communications I had, if any. As it turns out, No Mobile, No Internet (WiFi or Otherwise) but, there is a land line which allows overseas calls. Being cut off like this, is driving me barmy. However, succeeded in making contact, which is more than I had managed last night.

Lovey Spot - Saw Skippies in the Field to The Rear

After writing up some note I set off for the bar/restaurant at about 6 pm just as the first drops of rain were falling. Within half an hour this had developed into a full scale storm with torrential rain and thunder and lightning. Unfortunately, this meant that I was stuck in the bar until it eased off at about 8 pm. As I got back to van, I could have done with a pair of waders, it was almost completely surrounded by water. The remains of which you can see in the photo below, which I took the following morning.

A Bit Wetter Than When I Parked Here

So, after writing up most of my Blog draft I was waiting for Zebedee when he sprang up with his “and so to bed.”

Aus Day 21 - A Rude Awakening

Sunday October 10th    Aus Day 21


I was woken at about 02.15 by the sound of loud music and drunken voices shouting. This turned out to be the rag end of what had obviously been a very good night in the Barkly Homestead Bar. I thought the place had been pretty busy when I had my evening meal of ‘egg & bacon burger’ in there. However, it had been relatively quite when I left at 7.30 pm.

Anyway, soon off back to sleep, to arise this morning at 07.30. Shower, Breakfast, and hit the road after refuelling by 09.00 with an original destination of Cape Crawford at the north end of the Tablelands Hwy, Route 11. I had already identified a further potential destination of Borroloola, along the Savannah Hwy towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, depending on time available.

The Tablelands Hwy is a 380 km, single track sealed road that connects the Barkly Hwy with the Carpentaria/Savannah Hwys. One of the constant hazards on the road is wandering stock. You have to be continually vigilant for stock standing on or crossing the road. I took this photo early on but others were literally in the middle of the road drinking from rain water pools. Part of the difficulty was that you couldn’t predict what they were liable to do as you approached. One young steer ran directly in front of the van but I had taken precautions and was able to stop in time. Traumatic, all the same.

Just Cleared the Road in Time

The Tablelands are rightly named in that it is a vast expanse of very flat land with the cattle farms, or Stations, covering enormous areas. You might think it was boring to drive through this landscape but, I found it fascinating, always looking out for the next point of interest. There were many predatory birds, cruising the highway due to the large number of road-kill carcasses lining the road. Unfortunately, as ever, they were always too fast for me to get a decent photo, by the time I had stopped the van they were miles away.

Tablelands Highway

Van on the Tablelands Highway

Which Way is it Now???

At about 10.55 I was crossing the Playford River, what I thought would just be another dry riverbed when I spotted that there was actually a pool remaining which was being visited by numerous cattle and also a variety of bird life, including Pelicans. I stopped a little way past and tried to sneak back with camera at the ready. Unfortunately I didn’t get too close before the pelicans spotted me and took off in unison an were soon circling about half a mile away. However, I waited patiently and eventually, one of them returned along with a couple of herons and some cormorants.

It Definitely Says River - Not Pond

Where did those Pelicans Go?

Oh! One of You Came Back Then?

Leaving the birds and cattle to their water hole I pressed on against the overwhelming traffic (lol) but as I travelled the scenery was gradually changing and I started to see more and more of the Termite heaps across the landscape and at 11.15 decided to take a shot or two to show you. As you can see they’re a bit like East London Tower Blocks.

Quick Fred - Build Another One!

At 12.00 I stopped again for a quick drink, one has to keep one’s liquid intake up. By this time, I had been driving for 3 hours and covered 243 kms with another 137 kms to go to reach Cape Crawford and the landscape had changed again and I was now driving through a wooded environment. Not very tall and not very thick but, definitely trees.

See, I Told You Trees Hadn't Been Banned

Mustn't Loose The Van Amongst All These Trees

At about 12.30 with approximately 90 kms to go, a veritable rush hour developed with three vehicles rushing past me in the opposite direction. This entails passing vehicles to travel half on the sealed surface and half on the unsealed, hard shoulder and hopefully slow down to a reasonable pace. Unfortunately for me, the first of these three vehicles, a large pick-up truck pulling a trailer with a boat on it, hurtled past, completely on the unsealed surface, and flung up a shower of stones, one of which put a 1” diameter star-chip right in the centre of my windscreen. Luckily, it didn’t shatter but it gave me a hell of a shock and there were one or two expletives expressed. This incident over, I was getting close to Cape Crawford and the terrain was now getting a bit more undulating and I even stopped to get a photo of a rocky ridge, through the trees.

An Outbreak Of Hilly Stuff

13.30, and I arrived at Cape Crawford Roadhouse at the north end of the Tablelands Hwy. As with most roadhouses, there was nothing else there and as I had time to spare, decided to nip out to Borroloola, just because I fancied the name and because I could. I know I will simply have to retrace my tracks tomorrow but hey! It’s my holiday. So, having refuelled, at some exorbitant rate close to 112 pence per litre, and stocked up on diet coke, I headed off in an easterly direction along the Savannah Hwy. The first 10 kms or so, were pretty much like the Tablelands Hwy, i.e. Single track but then it broadened into a two lane highway apart from the odd stretch here and there. This was an uneventful run and I arrived in Borroloola at 15.00 having totally forgotten that it was Sunday so was unable to stock up on beer which I am down to my last can. Hey Ho!

Selected a nice shady spot in the caravan park and set-to to complete my notes.


Nice Shady Retreat At Borroloola

Borroloola seems to be a jumping off place for fishermen with much advertising of Barramundi and all sorts of fishing tackle. However, I don’t think I will bother. I would like to have made it to ‘Bing Bong’ on the Gulf of Carpentaria but time is now against me, so will have to forego that opportunity. In any case, in my travels I am realising that it is not necessarily arriving somewhere and ‘doing’ things that attracts me but, the simple fact of travelling and witnessing new things every day. Apart from that chap Zebedee, who seems to spring up wherever I am. “And so to bed!!!”