Day 11 - Head for the Hills

Day 11 Friday September 10th

Up at 07.00 although I didn’t want to. It was B***** cold outside my duvet and the thought of getting outside the van to the shower was not a pleasant one. However it had to be done. Once the decision was made and action initiated, I soon got myself organised and had breakfast over in no time at all. Decided to spend a bit of time checking emails and had one response to deal with. However there was no reply from the one I sent to the camper site yesterday asking about reservations so I will just have to pitch up. I don’t anticipate any problem though.

There is no rush this morning as I don’t have too far to travel, only about 170 kms, no distance at all so, didn’t set off until about 09.15.

Hadn’t actually got very far when I decided to call into ShantyTown which is a replica of how some of the old time settlements were. Plus, of course, there was a real live steam engine for me to take a ride on. Unfortunately, it was being driven by a girl!!!

Water wheel driving machinery- used amazingly little water

The Steam Engine in use - with Female Driver

Lovely Engine but didn't travel far - About 0.5 miles

Shanty Town Stores - Some Operational

More Shanty Town Stores - Plus Female in Period Costume

JB in Shanty Town 'Main Street'

Left Shanty town at about 11.15 and continued South on Route 6 until I stopped for a spot of lunch at a scenic lookout, the name of which I inadvertently forgot to note but it was somewhere between Ross and Hari Hari. The weather is a strange combination of heavy rain interspersed with short periods of bright sunshine. Quite a contrast from yesterday.

The terrain I had been travelling through for most of the day was rather unremarkable and through quite large areas of very flat countryside. Mostly cattle farming, probably dairy farming to judge by the many herds of cows dotted about.

However, as I was approaching Franz Josef Village the road started to climb, locally signed ‘Mount Hercules’ but that name doesn’t appear on the map I am using. Passed by Lake Wahapo and took a couple of snaps

Lake Wahapo

Lake Wahapo

before arriving in Franz Josef by about 15.00. Located the camper site ‘Rain Forest Retreat’ and booked in before going to do some more provisions shopping. During this trip, I was checking out the Tourist Information office and discovered that access to the Glacier was only 5 kms up the road so jumped back in the van and went for a quick visit. (As you do!)

Took the 10 minute walk from the car park to the scenic look out and the following are a sample of the shots I took. Thank God for digital cameras, There is no way that I would want to be carting around the amount of roll film I would need for this trip.

Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier - Disappears into cloud at the top

Franz Josef Glacier - Telephoto Shot

JB at the Franz Josef Glacier

Returned to the camp site and got set up. Had an individual, microwave, pizza for tea. Sounds revolting but it fills a hole. That then just left time to establish Skype contact and then retire to the site bar where happy hour was from 7pm to 9 pm and the draught Tui was available at $4.50 a pint. About £2.00 so it seemed churlish to refuse. However I did have the laptop with me and spent the time drafting this very update. And then so to bed said Zebedee. See you tomorrow.

Day 10 - Towards the Southern Alps

Day 10 Thursday 9th September

Rose at 06.50 and following morning ablutions and breakfast was sat in the van listening to local radio with ongoing tales of woe with regard to the Christchurch earthquake. I must remember to check with Apollo if their Christchurch depot is still operational for when I need to return the van. I also need to verify that Quantas flights are still operating from Christchurch airport without any problem.

Sun splitting the trees this morning and although there are a few clouds in the sky, it is another beautiful day in Paradise.

A few ducks are wandering amongst the vans and being the easy touch that I am I tossed out some bread for them, only to be descended upon by a mob of seagulls. Seems that they are the same the world over. However, here are some of the ducks:

Mallard Ducks at Nelson Camper Site

I was getting ready to leave when I got into conversation with Colin, a chap a little younger than myself who is a joiner by trade but, who is currently installing solar power systems. So doing his bit for the planet. We had a good chat about the benefits and technicalities of such systems which branched into the benefits of the Stirling Engine. Most interesting. Then I took my anorak off.

Departed Nelson just after 09.00 to continue South on Route 6. However it wasn’t too long before I found myself having to stop to take photos. Something that was going to happen frequently during the day. I’ll let the following photos speak for themselves.

Snow on them thar hills - Near Richmond

View near Belgrove on Route 6

Another view near Belgrove

JB at Kohatu - Approaching the Hope Range

View near Kohatu

JB at the Hope Saddle Scenic Lookout in the Hope Range

White Cliffs at WhiteCliffs Creek

I had refuelled at Murchison and stopped for lunch at Berlins where I took the opportunity to photograph the Buller River:

Buller River at Berlins

Shortly after this I hit the coast and from there on, just about every bend in the road opened up a whole new incredible vista. Once again the futility of trying to do justice to the NZ scenery in a 3 week whistle stop tour became absolutely evident. Here are just a couple of views which I hope will express what I mean:

Small Cove near Charleston - Could have stayed all day.

Coastal View near Greigs just North of Greymouth

I finally arrived at the Kiwi holiday Park site at about 3.00 pm and went for a stroll on the beach which was all of about 50 metres away. A big open expanse of beach looking out over the Tasman Sea and with hardly a soul in sight:

Beach at Greymouth - 50 Metres from Camper Site

Greymouth Beach looking towards Southern Alps

Went off to get a few more provisions in, somebody keeps using all the stuff I buy. However, on return I got the van set up and had a quick early tea before hightailing it back to the beach in the hope of catching a good sunset. Unfortunately, not spectacular this evening but the following will give you some idea about what they might be like.

Sunset on Greymouth Beach

The rest of the evening was then, as usual, spent catching up with emails, Skype sessions and updating the Blog. Mind you with it being such a beautiful day, the temperature quickly dropped and I was eventually glad to get wrapped up in my nice warm duvet by 10.30.

Day 9 - Across to South Island

Day 9 (Wednesday 8th September)


Up at the crack of sparrows this morning, in fact, I think they were still in kip when I got up at 05.30 'cause it was still dark. However, at least I was first in the shower. Usual routine for breakfast, packed up and on the road for 06.35. I could have left it a little later but didn’t want to miss the ferry. As it happens, I was at the check-in by 06.55 and just waiting to be loaded.

Weather cloudy but fine although a bit chilly.

Wellington Harbour

The Kaitaki

Radio reports of seismic activity on North Island yesterday, in the region of Hawke Bay where I had been the day before. However, I didn’t feel anything and I suspect the radio presenter was a bit sceptical.

Eventually loaded onto the ferry Kaitaki and set sail at approximately 08.40. Uneventful crossing although misty rain and sunshine gave rise to a close proximity rainbow:

The ship has just navigated that small channel

Very Close Proximity Rainbow

Arrived at Picton, South Island at 12.15 and decided to take the coast road, Queen Charlotte Drive. I should have realised what sort of road it was when I saw the sign restricting maximum vehicle length to 12.9 metres. The early part of the route overlooks Picton Harbour and Queen Charlotte Sound.

Overlooking Picton Harbour

Overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound

Driving was quite a challenge and it is probably just as well that I didn’t have any passengers. At one time I had the nearside, rear, wheel off the ground and spinning without providing any traction. Still, I made it.

Some spectacular scenery along the way but unfortunately nowhere to stop for photographs until I was almost at Havelock

View near Havelock

where I rejoined Route 6 and it became almost plain sailing all the way to Nelson where I booked into the Kiwi Holiday Park by about 2.45. Since I had been up since 05.30, I really didn’t fancy going any further.

Having got set up, I took myself off for a walk and eventually found myself on the local beach so , naturally had to take a couple more photos

The Beach at Nelson

JB On Nelson Beach

Returning to the van I treated myself to a beer

JB at Nelson Planning for Tomorrow

while soaking up the sunshine and planning the following day’s trip. I was joined, in an overhanging tree by a Tui, a distinctive Kiwi bird which is also the symbol of the NZ Brewing company “TUI”, It seems I was very privileged to have one stay so close to me. However, I think it was because that just happened to be his tree.

My Mate - Tui

Finished the evening with emails, Skype conversation and updating the Blog.

Oh, I didn’t find out until it was too late, the camp site is right underneath the local airport flight path. Ho Hum, and so to bed said Zebedee!!!

Day 8 - Travel To Wellington

Day 8 (Tuesday 7th Sept)


Trifle late up this morning, 07.10, I will need to be up and about much earlier tomorrow as latest book-in time for the ferry is 07.25. However, after shower and breakfast spent some time updating the draft blog before setting off on the road to Wellington at 09.30. Taking a couple of shots of the camp site on the way out.

JB Leaving the Waipawa Camp Site

Leaving Rivers Edge Holiday Park

Following Route 2 all the way today but made my first small diversion to a place called Norsewood where the Scandinavian influence is still to be seen. It has a woollen mill still producing a range of knitted goods. See photos:

Norsewood Johannas World

Norsewood model site

Leaving Norsewood, I continued through Dannevirke, another town where the Scandinavian history is strong, turned left at Woodville until I reached Pahiatua where I came across an old aircraft being utilised as a slide in a children’s playground.

Who can tell me the Aircraft Type?

I feel sure that someone will be able to enlighten me to the aircraft type. Continued on the way to Masterton, stopping off for a quick photo shoot along the road.

View on the road to Masterton

View on the road to Masterton

Masterton at about 12.10, refuelled, got on a public phone and booked into the Capital Gateway Motor Inn and got directions as to how to get there.

Masterton Main Street

Travelled a bit further down the road and stopped off for a spot of lunch at Greytown which was the terminus for an early railway. See photos

Original Site Of Railway Terminus - Greytown

Railway Terminus History

Leaving Greytown I soon started climbing into the Rimutaka range which has to be crossed to get to Wellington. This led to some more very testing driving with speeds dropping on occasion to 25 kph. However, the views from the summit, the sun having emerged, were really worth the slog up the hill. See photos

View over the Rimutaka Range North East of Wellington

View over the Rimutaka Range North East of Wellington

JB in the Rimutaka Range

The freewheeling ride down the other side of the range was not as testing and I soon found myself passing through Upper Hut, Lower Hut and fairly quickly into the outskirts of Wellington, turned off onto Route 1 and quickly found the Capital Gateway Campervan Park. This was a much more up-market site but included Internet access for the duration of my stay. Van soon set up and a batch of washing started before having a quick look around. See photos:

Capital Gateway Caravan Park- My Van Front Left

Entrance to the Caravan Park

Spent the evening emailing and Blogging before having a couple of beers (Tui) and treating myself to a bar snack of “fish bites and chips”. Retired to the van for an early night at 9.30 since I needed to be up by 05.30 in order to catch the ferry to South Island.

That’s all for today. See you again tomorrow.