Aus Day 23 - Katherine and the Internet

Tuesday 12th October Aus Day 23


Rose at 07.30, shower, breakfast, completed draft of Blog for Monday then prepared for moving. Refuelled and hit the road by 09.20. At 53 kms up the road I pulled in to the Alexander Forrest Commemorative Cairn. Who, you might well ask, was Alexander Forrest? Well, those interested can follow the link but the cairn was erected by the Royal W.A. Historical Society and Katherine Historical to commemorate the fact that Alexander Forrest and his party had reached the Overland Telegraph near this point on the night of 31st August 1879 after making an epic journey from De Grey on the W.A. Coast. As it happens, the cairn looks to be falling into disrepair.

Sign to Alexander Forrest Commemorativel Cairn

They are very strong on the WWII Historical sites in the Northern Territory with all of the airfield sites duly signed, as in this example:

Sign to the WWII Gorrie Airfield on the Stuart Highway

Some of you will recognise that I have a passing interest in things of a railway nature and consequently you may understand why I stopped to take this photo as I entered Mataranka However, the Never-Never Line was the name given to the Northern Section of the railway which now runs from Adelaide to Darwin but was only completed in 2004.

Arrival at Mataranka

Stopped for a quick spot of lunch at 12.25 and was on my way again by 12.45. I knew that this was going to be a short leg and I rolled into Katherine at about 13.30 and my first port of call was the Telstra office to make enquiries about the Australian Mobile Internet “Next G.” This requires a USB connector with a Pre-Paid; SIM card installed which will then connects to the Internet where-ever there is a Telstra mast and are reputed to work throughout Australia. Well I thought, it is worth the risk at $89 since it comes with 2 GB of data pre-loaded. Assuming it installs and operates correctly, it will pay for itself in saved Internet connection fees in a very short space of time. Fingers crossed.

Called into Woolworths, (yes they still have them and they still call them “Woolies”) for provisions then hightailed it to the Caravan Park. I was allocated a nice shady spot but, it was so hot and humid that I was just dripping with perspiration (sweat).

However, set to and installed my new acquisition without any problems and was soon up and running. Just to test it out I spent some time updating the Blog entries for 20th, 21st an 22nd, all without issue. However, to cap it all, I re-established Skype contact with the lovely Eileen and that really made my day.

Being so hot and sticky, I thought that a dip in the pool might cool me down a little and so dutifully, showered and threw myself into the pool. Felt great immediately afterwards but was soon sweating up again, although I felt revived enough to rustle up a salad tea, which I ate, Al Fresco. (Getting to be a habit).

I was also doing some more work on the laptop and it was rapidly approaching the time when I could hardly see the keys and the insects were arriving, attracted by the light from the screen. So, as hot and humid as it was, I retreated to the interior of the van to complete my work. I had earlier thought of taking a dip in the Thermal Pools, just outside the caravan park but the notice about crocodiles put me off and in any case, I didn’t want to be any warmer than I already was.

Before long that chap Zebedee turned up and put me to bed for the night. However, it rained quite heavily again during the night and I was greeted with the following scene when I arose.

Water, Water, Everywhere

Aus Day 22 - Frogs and Rain Storms

Monday 11nd October     Aus Day 22


A hot and humid night which I spent with all of the screened windows fully open and still had to sleep in the buff. (Oooooohhhhh, naughty!!!)

However, just before retiring last night at about 10.30, I went to the loo and to clean my teeth. Luckily I had my torch with me as I was greeted by a veritable plague of frogs. It was ‘orrible. Naturally I was careful to check the toilet and shower before I used them this morning.

The dawn chorus was particularly raucous with the Crows and Gullahs competing to make the most noise. As a consequence I was up at 06.45 and having showered, had breakfast Al Fresco. See photo below.

Kippers Sir?

After listening to the birds for while and watching the butterflies flutter through the trees I decided to try and capture a photo. The one below is the best of several attempts:

Butterflies Seem To Be The Only Thing To Stay Still Long Enough For A Photo

However, having idled away enough time, I packed up and was ready to go by 09.20 stopping off in town to refuel. Then hit the Savannah Hwy back towards Cape Crawford which would then continue into the Carpentaria Hwy to the Stuart Hwy at the Hi-Way Inn some 380 kms away.

I was surprised at about 10.35 to come across a round-up with mounted riders controlling a bunch of cattle along the aide of the highway:

Head 'em up and Move 'em Out - Yee Haaa!!!

I followed this shortly after with a view of the single track Savannah Hwy:

Savannah Highway - Reminds Me Of Somewhere Else!

At about 10.50, I sailed past the Cape Crawford Roadhouse without stopping and onto the almost entirely single track Carpentaria Hwy. Some 30 minutes later I pulled into a rest area about 30 kms down the track where I was quite surprised to find the following views:

View North - Just Off The Carpentaria Highway

View West From The Same Rest Area

And JB Was There As Well

I decided that I couldn’t avoid showing you the single track Carpentaria Hwy and so here it is:

Carpentaria Hwy - The Weather Was Nice At This Point

As is my custom, I stopped a little after 12.00 at the next available rest area but this wan’t even worth a photograph for posterity. However, I had now covered 212 km and still ad some way to go:

The Yellow Brick Road Wasn't As Long As This

The rest of the journey passed uneventfully apart from having to follow an escort vehicle through a set of roadworks (about 3 kms long) and having to pull completely off the carriageway on two occasions to let Road Trains through. Well! I wasn’t going to argue with them, was I? Finally, at about 2.30 pm I spotted the following sign and just afterwards, pulled into the roadhouse.

At Last!!! - The Bottom Right Hand Side Said - 'Air Con Bar'

First impression was pretty good and when I found that the rates were only £10 with a sun-downer drink thrown in, I was really impressed. So, with fees duly handed over, I set up in a very select spot under a big tree and proceeded to find out what communications I had, if any. As it turns out, No Mobile, No Internet (WiFi or Otherwise) but, there is a land line which allows overseas calls. Being cut off like this, is driving me barmy. However, succeeded in making contact, which is more than I had managed last night.

Lovey Spot - Saw Skippies in the Field to The Rear

After writing up some note I set off for the bar/restaurant at about 6 pm just as the first drops of rain were falling. Within half an hour this had developed into a full scale storm with torrential rain and thunder and lightning. Unfortunately, this meant that I was stuck in the bar until it eased off at about 8 pm. As I got back to van, I could have done with a pair of waders, it was almost completely surrounded by water. The remains of which you can see in the photo below, which I took the following morning.

A Bit Wetter Than When I Parked Here

So, after writing up most of my Blog draft I was waiting for Zebedee when he sprang up with his “and so to bed.”

Aus Day 21 - A Rude Awakening

Sunday October 10th    Aus Day 21


I was woken at about 02.15 by the sound of loud music and drunken voices shouting. This turned out to be the rag end of what had obviously been a very good night in the Barkly Homestead Bar. I thought the place had been pretty busy when I had my evening meal of ‘egg & bacon burger’ in there. However, it had been relatively quite when I left at 7.30 pm.

Anyway, soon off back to sleep, to arise this morning at 07.30. Shower, Breakfast, and hit the road after refuelling by 09.00 with an original destination of Cape Crawford at the north end of the Tablelands Hwy, Route 11. I had already identified a further potential destination of Borroloola, along the Savannah Hwy towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, depending on time available.

The Tablelands Hwy is a 380 km, single track sealed road that connects the Barkly Hwy with the Carpentaria/Savannah Hwys. One of the constant hazards on the road is wandering stock. You have to be continually vigilant for stock standing on or crossing the road. I took this photo early on but others were literally in the middle of the road drinking from rain water pools. Part of the difficulty was that you couldn’t predict what they were liable to do as you approached. One young steer ran directly in front of the van but I had taken precautions and was able to stop in time. Traumatic, all the same.

Just Cleared the Road in Time

The Tablelands are rightly named in that it is a vast expanse of very flat land with the cattle farms, or Stations, covering enormous areas. You might think it was boring to drive through this landscape but, I found it fascinating, always looking out for the next point of interest. There were many predatory birds, cruising the highway due to the large number of road-kill carcasses lining the road. Unfortunately, as ever, they were always too fast for me to get a decent photo, by the time I had stopped the van they were miles away.

Tablelands Highway

Van on the Tablelands Highway

Which Way is it Now???

At about 10.55 I was crossing the Playford River, what I thought would just be another dry riverbed when I spotted that there was actually a pool remaining which was being visited by numerous cattle and also a variety of bird life, including Pelicans. I stopped a little way past and tried to sneak back with camera at the ready. Unfortunately I didn’t get too close before the pelicans spotted me and took off in unison an were soon circling about half a mile away. However, I waited patiently and eventually, one of them returned along with a couple of herons and some cormorants.

It Definitely Says River - Not Pond

Where did those Pelicans Go?

Oh! One of You Came Back Then?

Leaving the birds and cattle to their water hole I pressed on against the overwhelming traffic (lol) but as I travelled the scenery was gradually changing and I started to see more and more of the Termite heaps across the landscape and at 11.15 decided to take a shot or two to show you. As you can see they’re a bit like East London Tower Blocks.

Quick Fred - Build Another One!

At 12.00 I stopped again for a quick drink, one has to keep one’s liquid intake up. By this time, I had been driving for 3 hours and covered 243 kms with another 137 kms to go to reach Cape Crawford and the landscape had changed again and I was now driving through a wooded environment. Not very tall and not very thick but, definitely trees.

See, I Told You Trees Hadn't Been Banned

Mustn't Loose The Van Amongst All These Trees

At about 12.30 with approximately 90 kms to go, a veritable rush hour developed with three vehicles rushing past me in the opposite direction. This entails passing vehicles to travel half on the sealed surface and half on the unsealed, hard shoulder and hopefully slow down to a reasonable pace. Unfortunately for me, the first of these three vehicles, a large pick-up truck pulling a trailer with a boat on it, hurtled past, completely on the unsealed surface, and flung up a shower of stones, one of which put a 1” diameter star-chip right in the centre of my windscreen. Luckily, it didn’t shatter but it gave me a hell of a shock and there were one or two expletives expressed. This incident over, I was getting close to Cape Crawford and the terrain was now getting a bit more undulating and I even stopped to get a photo of a rocky ridge, through the trees.

An Outbreak Of Hilly Stuff

13.30, and I arrived at Cape Crawford Roadhouse at the north end of the Tablelands Hwy. As with most roadhouses, there was nothing else there and as I had time to spare, decided to nip out to Borroloola, just because I fancied the name and because I could. I know I will simply have to retrace my tracks tomorrow but hey! It’s my holiday. So, having refuelled, at some exorbitant rate close to 112 pence per litre, and stocked up on diet coke, I headed off in an easterly direction along the Savannah Hwy. The first 10 kms or so, were pretty much like the Tablelands Hwy, i.e. Single track but then it broadened into a two lane highway apart from the odd stretch here and there. This was an uneventful run and I arrived in Borroloola at 15.00 having totally forgotten that it was Sunday so was unable to stock up on beer which I am down to my last can. Hey Ho!

Selected a nice shady spot in the caravan park and set-to to complete my notes.


Nice Shady Retreat At Borroloola

Borroloola seems to be a jumping off place for fishermen with much advertising of Barramundi and all sorts of fishing tackle. However, I don’t think I will bother. I would like to have made it to ‘Bing Bong’ on the Gulf of Carpentaria but time is now against me, so will have to forego that opportunity. In any case, in my travels I am realising that it is not necessarily arriving somewhere and ‘doing’ things that attracts me but, the simple fact of travelling and witnessing new things every day. Apart from that chap Zebedee, who seems to spring up wherever I am. “And so to bed!!!”

Aus Day 20 - Traction Engine Graveyard?

Saturday 9th October Aus Day 20

Rose at 06.45 this morning, things to do, places to go. Shower and breakfast, updated travel accounts, which I had forgotten last night, (I’m going to have to sack my Secretary) and was sat outside the BP Station (Internet Access Point) at 08.30 trying to log on in order to update the Blog. An hour later and the Blog was updated, emails checked and bank balance checked. So, All Systems Are Go!

Before I move on I thought I’d just show you the Caravan Park and the BP Station where I was having to log on.

The Outback Caravan Park - Tennant Creek





JB's Internet Access Location

I hit the road by 09.35 but, not having a great distance to cover immediately lapsed into Sunday Afternoon Driver mode but even so, by 09.50 I had reached the Barkly Highway turnoff at the Threeways Roadhouse. However, I carried on just a little way past this, to photograph the John Flynn Memorial:

The John Flynn Memorial Near ThreeWays Roadhouse

The Very Reverend John Flynn (1880 – 1951) proposed a string of Nursing Homes across the Australian Inland and as Superintendent of the Australian Inland Mission, he established 15 widely scattered hospitals across the Inland Regions, including Adelaide House in Alice Springs, the first hospital in Central Australia. The establishment of the Royal Flying Doctor Service was largely due to his vision and energy. The first Flying Doctor Base was established at Cloncurry, Queensland, in 1928.

Leaving the Memorial I backtracked to the ThreeWays Roadhouse in order to use their facilities, as they say, and then ‘hung a left’ and proceeded in an easterly direction down the Barkly Highway. (your honour!!!)

The ThreeWays Roadhouse - Junction of Stuart and Barkly Highways

I had only 188 kms to cover to get to the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse, my intended overnight stop-off so, continued in the Sunday Driver mode, drifting slowly down the highway, serenaded by Simon & Garfunkle whilst taking in the vast expanses of the Barkly Tableland and being hassled by the rush hour traffic;

Australian - Barkly Tableland

Rush Hour on the Barkly Highway

At the 41 Mile Bore Rest Area, I pulled off just to pass a bit of time really but managed while I was there to get a couple of photos of Gullahs and I think that this proves that they can’t read:

I don't Care what is says, It Tastes Alright to me!

I Told You We Shouldn't Drink That Water!!!

There is not much else to report about this shortish journey except that I stopped again at the next rest area to have a spot of lunch and spent 1.5 hour there, mostly contemplating the inside of my eyelids. This delayed my getting to the Barkly Homestead until 2.20 pm when I booked in for the night. Unfortunately, there is no mobile phone network and no Internet access so; it looks as though I am marooned on a communications desert island. However, I’m sure there will be a land line which I can use to establish some limited contact with civilisation.

The other facilities at the Homestead are quite acceptable and I was very surprised to find a collection of old traction engine relics adorning the frontage. A couple of them I present for your appreciation along with a general view of the roadhouse:

Barkly Homestead Roadhouse

Remains of Vintage Traction Engine

Ditto

Having set up camp, so to speak, and established the limit of communication facilities, I had little else to do but draft this Blog and then prepare for an evening meal while relaxing in the shade with a refreshing beer.

Finally managed to make contact with the UK via a very dodgy land line but am feeling very put out at not being able to communicate properly with the lovely Eileen. I have to content myself with the thought that she will be joining me in Darwin on the night of 21st October, for three weeks as we travel down the west coast to Perth. Brilliant!!!

Treated myself to an evening meal in the Roadhouse which was rather busy but not with campers so, I have no idea where all of these ‘locals’ have appeared from as there doesn’t appear to be anything else for miles around. Still, not for me to worry about, that chap Zebedee is around so it’s off to bed.

Aus Day 19 - Site of the Last Great Gold Rush

Friday 8th October Aus Day 19

Late up again this morning, 07.40, this is getting to be a bad habit. Still, I am still not in a hurry. Weather cloudy and dull but dry and it is reasonably warm, although windy. Departed the caravan park soon after 9, and made my way to the Tourist Information Office which is actually situated at the Battery Hill Mining Centre.

Tennant Creek Visitor Information Centre - With Photo Opportunity Board

I had hoped to be able to get on to one of the Gold Mine Tours but guess which day they don’t conduct them – Yes! Friday. So, I will have to find something else to do. Actually the guy in the Information Office was very helpful and highlighted a number of other attractions in and around the town. The first of these being the Bill Allen Lookout (I forgot to ask who Bill Allen was) about 2 kms up the road. Being in tourist mode I duly set off and was soon happily snapping away:

View from the Bill Allen Lookout

JB at the Bill Allen Lookout

View from Bill Allen Lookout - Towards Mount Samuel

However, it wasn’t too long before I had to tear myself away and head for pastures new. This turned out to be the Mary Ann Dam. Mary Ann Creek, on which the dam is sited, was named after the Mary Ann Mine in the Honeymoon Ranges. The mine was named after Mary Jean and Wendy Ann Williams, daughters of the mine’s owner, Harold Williams. It is a delightful oasis in an otherwise arid environment.

Mary Ann Dam - Tennant Creek

The Other End of the Mary Ann Dam

I wandered about the area for some time trying to get close enough to the local bird life (Herons, Cormorants, Budgerigars and Parrots, to name but a few) however, they were all too quick for me although I did manage to snap these 3 from about 20 metres.

Birds at the Mary Ann Dam

Additionally, I stumbled across the following art work on the side of the toilet block:


Art Work on the Toilet Block

The rest of the day was spent in trying to get a reverse charges phone call to the UK. Difficult but, successful in the end. This was a pre-emptive call to ensure MBNA didn’t block my card, despite my emphasising to them that I would be in NZ and Australia, well before I left the UK.

Visited the local supermarket for yet more provisions and then spent time camped outside the BP Filling Station logged onto the Internet via Nomadnet, in order to get the Blog updated for Wednesday and Thursday. The things I have to do!!!!!

Having then booked into a different, and better, caravan park I went over my plans for getting to Darwin and revised them somewhat to take in a detour; down the Barkly Highway, to the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse, Tablelands Hwy to the Cape Crawford Roadhouse and then West along the Carpentaria Hwy back to the Stuart Hwy at the Hi-Way Inn Roadhouse. This will probably take an extra 2 days but, I’ve got the time to spare and it seemed like a good idea.

Following my prized Skype session with Eileen, I decided to treat myself to dinner at the caravan park and was delighted with the Barramundi with salad and chips that was served up along with the usual tourist conversations with the other diners.

 

And so another day comes to a close with the keys on the laptop taking a hammering as I try to get the Blog draft done before Zebedee comes calling. However, It will have to be posted tomorrow morning. G’Night All.

PS: It is 6 weeks today since I left the UK.